Tag Archives: Leanne Fogarty

Thailand Day 3 – Tourists Create the Demand – Koh Tao

Guest post: Leanne Fogarty

I did my scuba certification on Koh Tao nine years ago. Now I can’t believe how over-run it has become. Precious memories of a spiritual, soulful paradise are bombarded by 20 taxi drivers shouting at you for your patronage. Is it us or the Thai who created this decline? Not a difficult question given that most Thai are relatively poor and need to etch a living wherever they can. Likewise it’s easy to resent the “inhumane beasts” that would torture a baby elephant.

But WE created that demand in the market. It’s US who are willing to pay ludicrous sums so we can get our perfect Facebook shot atop an elephant or cuddling a tiger. They are just giving us what we want and food and clothing to their family. One shouldn’t be quick to judge. I’m not excusing the “phajaan” by any means, but if we were no longer so privileged, would we not bend some of our morals so our family could survive?

Being a mahout (person looking after the elephant day-to-day) is not a well-paid vocation in Thailand. Often they are not the actual owners who reap the benefit of our limitless dollars. They are just trying to make it from one day to the next. It isn’t as black and white as it seems.

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Thailand Day 2- The Dark Side of Elephant Tourism

Guest post by elephant ambassador Leanne Fogarty currently traveling in Thailand.

Day 2 – Bangkok

The bus/catamaran to Koh Tao leaves at 6am so given my midnight arrival last night I decide to get a decent sleep and

spend one day in Bangkok. Two years ago I volunteered at ENP and became an Elephant Ambassador. That means we

tell people the dark side of elephant tourism that most visitors have no idea about. At ENP we learnt how tourism

elephants are not domesticated, but tortured into submission. They are plucked from the wild between 2 – 4 years of

age, still dependant on their mother’s milk. The baby’s mother and aunties were most likely slaughtered in the capture

as they tried valiantly to protect their precious infant. The baby is then placed in a tight wooden contraption, only just

big enough for itself, but not large enough for it to turn around. Over the next 3 – 10 days, depending on how strong

willed the elephant is, it is beaten with sticks, stabbed with bull hooks, starved, dehydrated, deprived of sleep and

screamed at. The “phajaan”, literally the “breaking” (of its wild spirit) is a centuries old practice in many countries with

elephants.

An ele never forgets this trauma, and years later, just the sight of the bull hook is enough to make it obey, even to the

point of exhaustion, severe pain and mental anguish. An Ele Ambassador educates people about the cruelty and

isolation eles suffer, just so we can cross off one of our bucket list items. I say “we” because I too rode and elephant

before I knew what was involved. Ambassadors also provide a list of places in 5 Asian countries where you can have a

non-riding, positive elephant experience. Feeding and swimming with a happy, healthy elephant is far more exciting

than a jerky, one-hour ride where you can only just see the back of its scarred head.

Part of the “Phajaan” process involves hitting the elephant with long sticks that have sharp nails on the end.

phajaan

Just one part of the horrific “Phajaan” process involves hitting the elephant’s sensitive areas (like its face and trunk) with long sticks that have sharp nails on the end. Source: unknown.

List of elephant sanctuaries by country.

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